Walk-in Shower Cost: Tub-to-Shower Kits vs a Full Remodel, Curbs, and Doors

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“Mom can’t step over the side of the tub anymore, but she doesn’t want a walk-in tub. Can we just turn the tub into a walk-in shower, and what does that cost?”

Quick answer: Turning a tub into a walk-in shower is done one of two ways. A tub-to-shower conversion kit puts a shower base and wall panels into the old tub’s footprint. A full remodel tears the space down to the studs and builds a tiled shower, often with a low or no curb. The kit is the lower-cost route, and the remodel is the higher-cost one. Angi’s 2026 cost data puts a tub-to-shower conversion at $1,200–$15,000 overall, with most homeowners spending $1,500–$8,000 and an average near $3,000; a prefab kit sits at the lower end of that range and a custom tiled remodel at the top. The safety add-ons are small-ticket items: grab bars and shower seats generally cost $15–$150 each, plus installation labor.

Two routes: conversion kit vs full remodel

Route What’s involved Price position
Tub-to-shower conversion kit Remove the tub. Then set a shower base (pan) in the same footprint, and add wall panels, a door or curtain, and a new valve and trim if needed. Lower. It uses the existing space and usually the existing drain location.
Full remodel Demolition to the studs, waterproofing, a moved or new drain, tile, glass, and often a lower curb or a curbless floor. Higher. It’s more labor, more trades, and more days.

For comparison, a walk-in tub costs $4,000–$15,000 installed (see the walk-in tub cost guide). Families pricing a bathroom change for the same reason often compare the two side by side, so ask for both quotes.

What drives the price

  • Tub removal. A cast-iron tub is heavy and often has to be broken up to come out. Removal, haul-away, and wall repair are usually separate lines on the quote.
  • The drain. A shower drain in the same spot as the tub drain keeps the cost down. Moving it, or switching to a linear drain, means opening the floor.
  • The curb. A standard shower base has a low curb built in. A curbless (zero-threshold) shower needs the floor recessed or sloped, which is real structural and waterproofing work.
  • Walls. Panels or a one-piece surround install faster than tile. Tile costs more labor but can be laid out around grab bars and a seat.
  • Blocking. If the walls are open, this is the cheapest time to add solid wood blocking for grab bars and a fold-down seat. See the grab bar installation guide.
  • Valve and fixtures. A handheld shower on a slide bar and an easy-to-reach valve are common choices for a seated shower.

Door and curb options

  • Curtain on a low curb. It costs the least and leaves the widest opening. A weighted curtain helps keep water in.
  • Swinging glass door. It needs clearance to swing out into the bathroom. Check that it won’t hit the toilet or vanity.
  • Sliding glass doors. They need no swing space, but the bottom track is one more thing to step over and clean.
  • Fixed glass panel, no door. It’s an open entry with a single splash panel. This works best with a curbless floor and enough room for the water to stay in.
  • Curbless (zero-threshold) entry. There’s no step at all, so a shower chair or rolling chair can roll in. It has the highest build cost, and it needs careful floor sloping so the water goes to the drain.

Whichever route you choose, ask each installer for an itemized quote that lists removal, plumbing, the base or floor, walls, the door, and blocking as separate lines.

Medicare and shower conversions

Original Medicare generally does not cover home modifications such as walk-in tubs or stair lifts. A tub-to-shower conversion is a home modification. Some Medicare Advantage plans and state Medicaid waiver programs have offered home-modification help, but that varies by plan and by state, so ask the plan or program directly. This site is not affiliated with Medicare, CMS, or any government agency.

Honest Downsides

  • Resale: some buyers want a tub. Many families with young children, and some buyers in general, look for at least one bathtub in a house. Converting the only tub can narrow the pool of buyers.
  • The bath-only-house caveat. If this bathroom has the only tub in the home, removing it means nobody in the house can take a bath. That matters for small children, for anyone who prefers a soak, and for future owners. If there’s a second bathroom, consider keeping or adding a tub there.
  • Kits fit standard sizes. Conversion kits are made for common tub footprints. An odd-sized alcove may need a custom base, which takes away much of the kit’s savings.
  • Curbless showers are hard to retrofit. Getting the floor to slope correctly in an existing house can mean cutting joists or building up the rest of the floor. Some bathrooms can’t do it at a reasonable cost.
  • Water on the floor. Low curbs and open entries let more water out. Plan the drain, the slope, and the splash panel carefully, and expect a bath mat outside the shower.
  • In-home sales visits. Some bath-conversion companies quote only during an in-home presentation. Take the written quote, don’t sign on the spot, and compare it with another installer’s itemized bid.

Plan the layout around the person: curb height, seat position, where the grab bars go, and which side the valve is on all affect whether the shower works for the person using it. Having an occupational therapist look at the bathroom before the design is final is a common and worthwhile step. Plumbing, electrical, and structural work belong with licensed professionals. This is general information, not personal medical advice.

Rule of thumb: if the tub’s footprint is standard and the drain can stay where it is, price a conversion kit first. Go to a full remodel when you need a curbless entry or a different layout. Before you remove the house’s only tub, think about who lives there next.

Want a price for your own bathroom?

Call (844) 609-3930 to connect with a local bathroom remodeler who can look at your tub or shower and give you a written quote.


Disclaimer: Mobility Cost Check is a free service to assist homeowners in connecting with local service providers. All contractors/providers are independent and Mobility Cost Check does not warrant or guarantee any work performed. It is the responsibility of the homeowner to verify that the hired contractor furnishes the necessary license and insurance required for the work being performed. All persons depicted in a photo or video are actors or models and not contractors listed on Mobility Cost Check. Same-day and 24/7 emergency services are subject to provider participation, location, technician availability, and demand. Availability is not guaranteed and may vary by market and appointment capacity.

General cost and fit information only — not medical advice and not a quote. Whether a product suits a particular person is a question for their clinician or an occupational therapist. Electrical, plumbing, and structural work belong with licensed professionals. This site is not affiliated with Medicare, CMS, or any government agency.

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Researched guides — prices checked against published cost guides, dealer data, and manufacturer specifications

Researched cost guides built from published cost data, dealer pricing, comparison testing, and manufacturer specifications. General information — not a quote, not medical advice, and not a contractor referral.

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